Elanthian Vogue/EV EXTRA! (Eoantos 5121)

Editor-in-Chief: Rohese Bayvel

Editor's Thoughts

Back in 5118, we introduced the concept of Elanthian Vogue EXTRA as an additional publication to our regular editions and supplementaries. In them, we take an in-depth look at one particular aspect of the Elanthian fashion scene.

Our recent winter editions uncovered "Adventures after Dark" in which we dived into the delights of Elanthian night life and the opportunities available to those who are looking for people to meet, places to go and fun things to do. We also looked at how easy it is to make the switch from day into night fashion with just a few key wardrobe pieces. As you might recall, one of those happens to be shoes or boots!

So, this EXTRA focuses on the artisan skill of cobbling and how it fits into a style-conscious wardrobe. We're also delighted to announce an upcoming event to launch an exciting range of unique, fashionably themed footwear. More will be revealed shortly!

This last edition of 5121 also gives me an opportunity thank those who have continued to support Elanthian Vogue; from the fascinating personalities featured in the year's publications and you, the reader, for your continuing interest. I hope you have all enjoyed the wide range of subjects we have covered this year and that you are as excited about 5122 as we are.

In closing, I personally want to pass on my blessings and best wishes for the Solstice and I hope that the new year brings you all that you wish for.

Editor

A Company of Cordwainers

Elanthia plays host to some of the most creative and skilled artisans in our time. The most notable are arguably those that have mastered the skill of cobbling but who should technically be referred to as cordwainers for their ability to make new shoes as opposed to "cobblers" who – under traditional guildhall strictures - tend to be restricted to simply repairing them.

Shoes are rather complex and made of a number of different pieces. Almost all of the pieces have to be measured and crafted in some way for the shoe to take on its final appearance. The pieces are held together through a combination of gluing, stitching, and nailing.

Cordwainers have quite a number of specialized tools that they use, which have been developed specifically for their trade. Even tools one would think would be "standard," like hammers, aren't as they have been adapted to the needs of shoemaking and are therefore only available in specifically appointed workshops. These workshops are to be found in several of the major towns and cities across Elanthia and can be rented for a nominal fee.

Pretty much the entire process is done using a set of patterns and a "last" or wooden form made to resemble a foot. Different styles of shoes require different patterns which are available from the Registrar in the guild workshops. A pointed toe slipper can’t be made using the pattern for rounded toe shoes and vice versa.

The shoe's upper is actually the easiest part to make as the cordwainer is working with softer, more flexible material. This material is selected for its appearance and ability to be dyed and adorned. It should be selected to be soft, subtle, and comfortable to wear.

The most complicated and time-consuming part of making a shoe is "lasting" it. This is the process of shaping the material used for making the upper shoe around the form to where it is going to meet with the sole of the shoe. It can be said that the lasting process makes or breaks the shoe – in both appearance and quality.

This part of the process requires the work to be carried out in a workshop setting. The shoemaker uses a pair of lasting pliers, which are specially designed to grip the upper and allow it to be pulled into shape around the form. As it is pulled into place, a nail is placed through the layers and the shoe upper is temporarily held in place.

The hard part of lasting is the toe and heel. If you think about it for a moment, it's clear that bending and stretching the material around the curve of the toe is going to leave you with too much material on the bottom side. This has to be folded and shaped in such a way as to provide a smooth surface without any of the folds showing above where the sole is attached.

Once the shoe has been shaped, the nails are removed and the upper is glued. This pushes out any air and compresses the leather slightly, ensuring a solid connection between the various pieces. Even with this, the shoe is not yet ready for a sole. In order for the sole to attach firmly to the shoe, a smooth surface is needed, which the folding of the leather during lasting precludes. The shoemaker carves the folds with a sharp knife and then with a file to create a smooth surface.

The cordwainer then builds up the sole using heavy tanned leather and starting with an edging around the perimeter of the shoe. This also requires the use of a pattern and measurements so that the sole can be shaped and cut perfectly. This is done first with a sharp knife, then with a file, and finally with a scraper. The scraper is also used along the sole to remove imperfections and smooth out the final surface.

Once the basic shoe has been crafted to the requisite standard, it is possible to add all manner of ornamentation or adornments. From laces and ribbons, beads, buttons, and buckles, toe caps, to linings, trims and fringes, the possibilities are endless. If none of these fit the desired outcome, the cordwainer could add heels instead and then, with a quick punch, add their hallmark and some additional zests.

With the practicalities out of the way, we thought you would like to meet just a few of Elanthia's most talented cordwainers. These five ladies have produced some exemplary footwear over the years and Elanthian Vogue are proud to feature them in this EXTRA edition. Each of these delightful cordwainers were asked to create a small collection around the theme of "Adventures after Dark" and it is our pleasure to announce that we will be presenting their work at a special event in Eorgaen. We thought you might like a taster of what to expect.

Akenna Laeraun

"To me cobbling is not only practical but an expression of one's creativeness and cleverness.  There are so many ways you can express yourself with a finely cobbled pair of shoes.  To show ruggedness or delicacy; even just something to compliment a lovely outfit.  Shoes are special because they get you to where you are going, sometimes literally, sometimes figuratively. 

I created "Winter's Breath" for it will soon be upon us.  The long shadows of the day, the dark and silent dusks.  The delicacy of snow and ice ... these will be expressed in my collection."

Avawren Fiora

"One can tell a great deal about a person by the quality of their shoes, and I delight in ensuring that your footwear make exactly the statement you intend.  For this collection, "Under the Lantern Lights," I took inspiration from the vibrant night markets of Ta'Nalfein's humid summers. I chose evening hues and floral accents highlighted by gold to invoke memories of those Koaratos evenings, strolling the darkened streets under the glow of floral silk lanterns."

Corlyne Lancre

"The House of Thorns present their Winter II 5121 Collection called, "Indulge."  As the gilded light of day turns to the silvered stillness of evening, our collection of footwear will allow you to engage in all your pursuits.  Muted shades of nightfall are pierced through by eye-catching ornamentation like the first glinting ray of morning light.  Draw the eye. Catch the breath. Indulge."

Laelithonel Asterfrost

"The perfect pair of footwear does more than simply provide physical comfort in the completion of the perfect outfit. As a cobbler there's a drive to take the vision in your mind and make something that somebody else can look at and say, "I understand that. I like that. That's very me, or who I want to be, and I want to wear that."  And there's a responsibility almost, to not just delve into the creative expression of your craft and stay true to your own vision, but to make certain that the person who wears what you've created, feels important once they've adorned themselves in the vision."

"Adventures After Dark evokes, for me, the velvety darkness of the night embracing moonlit paths we take in solitude or arms linked with a friend, or lover. Full of beautifully private thoughts, daring laughs that cut like crystal against the night air, heart to hearts. Lips baring truths as wildly raw as the night itself that even the stars tremble to crush themselves into a kiss that could be woven into the prose of morning.  My collection is therefore called, "Moonlit Wish."

Merelle Hart

"Cobbling is an important part of my life, it's what calls me in from the wilds and tames me for a while.  The art of making shoes requires discipline and patience, something I am not particularly known for so it has become a way for me to find inner calm – except when the materials and tools decide not to cooperate for some particular reason.  Then I can be heard expressing my displeasure to any who are willing to listen in the guildhall."

"It's actually after dark that I tend to most enjoy my time in the workshop.  It's when I often have my best ideas and can work with minimal distraction.  Wandering around at night, I am reminded of all the wildlife that also enjoys peace and quiet after dark.  This is why I have decided to call my collection, "Night Owl," after the nocturnal bird known for its soft feathers adapted for silent flight."

Collections

Winter's Breath Shadow ~ fuliginous leather riding boots buckled with glass-like obsidian Niveous ~ winter white jacquard ankle-boots trimmed with plush fur Dawn ~ icy pink moire silk slippers beaded with spun glass rings Snowblossom ~ blue-tinged white crepe silk pompes inset with glaesine petals Dusk ~ inky blue suede shoes laced with silver satin

Under the Lantern Lights Moth ~ night-hued flora-inked silk pompes inset with cloudy glass moths Gilded Light ~ austere grey spike-heeled shoes beaded with gilded nacre droplets Shimmer ~ twilight grey shimmering aqilorn shoes set on gold filigree heels Smoke ~ smoke-swept plum crepe silk shoes inset with stark black vaalin petals Argent Jewel ~ violet-swept argent jewel-woven mesh pompes

Indulge Velvet ~ onyx velvet spike-heeled shoes inset with dichroic glass moths Foil ~ foiled leather high-laced sandals lofted on tendrillar alum heels Tweed ~ onyx-checked tweed shoes capped with tapered vaalin Lace ~ dark emerald opaque lace calf-high boots set on floriated gold heels Jacquard ~ dark cherry floral jacquard ankle-boots inset with glaesine petals

Moonlit Wish Starless ~ black diamond-beaded lace shoes lofted on faceted onyx heels Firefly ~ shimmering night-hued velvet shoes raised on alexandrite heels Eclipse ~ ebon star-pierced leather boots buckled with obsidian Starstruck ~ celestial silver velvet ankle-boots capped with jeweled vaalin Flutter ~ glimmering ethereal blue silk flats beaded with tiny glowbark moths

Night Owl Snow ~ snowy white velvet shoes trimmed with downy feathers Barn ~ muted gold buffed leather ankle-boots set on smoky modwir heels Tawny ~ tawny gold brocade pompes inset with fused gold rings Elf ~ pearly silk slippers trimmed with muted gold owl feathers Barred ~ ivory-beige bloomed suede boots buttoned with shiny silver bars

Vogue After Dark

Invitation

Now for the details of the event itself!

Our aim is to thank all of our readers for helping to make Elanthian Vogue a success and to celebrate its four-year anniversary.

You are all invited to a champagne reception where we will offer the collection pieces for sale and raise a toast to 5122. This will take place in the newly refurbished Vogue Studio in Ta'Illistim on the evening of Feastday, the 11th day of Eorgaen at 7, as the elves reckon time. All the proceeds of the sale will go to the cordwainers featured and some have provided a little something extra to go with their beautifully crafted wares.

Bring your promissory notes or checkbooks and be prepared for an evening of glamorous fun and footwear. Perhaps you will also get a chance to meet one of two of our Vogue featured cordwainers in person!

Even if shoes aren't something that interests you, we hope you will come and share what your favorite theme or interviews have been or what you would like to see in future editions of Elanthian Vogue.

As always, I welcome feedback, suggestions, and articles for future editions. These can be submitted using a SUBMISSION FORM.

Editor